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Sulfites: much ado about nothing

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Sulfites
Government Warning on a wine label

“Contains Sulfites”. Many of us have noticed this warning on the back label of every wine bottle. Over the years, sulfites have gained a bad reputation. The alleged culprit of wine induced headaches the world over. Right? Wrong!!! Before I flip your world upside down, let me start by explaining what a sulfite is, why it’s in your wine bottle, why its presence in that bottle is legally made known on the back label, and what is actually causing your headaches.

Sulfites, sulfur dioxide, SO2: the terms are interchangeable. For grape growing and wine production, sulfur dioxide is an effective preservative and disinfectant. Let me start by saying that sulfur is actually important to the grape vine’s diet. Most of what a grape vine needs can be obtained naturally from the soil. However, a grape vine may receive additional sulfur from the grape grower. Sulfur is often applied in the vineyard in order to prevent powdery mildew. Powdery mildew is known technically as oidium. It is a fungal disease that has a distinctive white and spider web-like appearance. It’s powdery if you will. Powdery mildew attacks the green parts of a grape vine ultimately affecting grape yield and berry ripening. In other words, it is detrimental in that it reduces crop and grape quality. Sulfur to the rescue. It is important to understand that the application of any and all fungicides in the vineyard (including sulfur) must adhere to regulations. This means there must be sufficient time passed in between applications, and cannot be applied too close to harvest time.

In winemaking, sulfur dioxide is typically applied during the initial crushing and pressing of the grapes following harvest. In this way, sulfur dioxide is effective at preventing the oxidation of the would-be wine. Oxidation is a reaction of the juice/wine being exposed to oxygen. Oxidation causes a browning discoloration of the juice, as well as off aromas and flavors (just like apple slices that are left out in the open). Preventing oxidation is considered to be especially important in the production of white wines, as us consumers generally expect our white wines to be crystal clear and clean looking. As such, many white wines may contain higher levels of sulfites than red wines. Sulfur dioxide also has antimicrobial properties. Its use during winemaking prevents the development of off aromas and flavors caused by spoilage yeasts and bacteria (Brettanomyces is one example).

It is also important to note that sulfites are a natural by-product of the fermentation process. A fermentation alone will produce around 10 parts per million of sulfites. This means that even organic wines will contains sulfites. I want to let you know that there is no such thing as a sulfite-free wine. It is much the same concept of decaffeinated coffee still containing some amount of caffeine. So then why do some labels say “Sulfite-free” or “Contains no added sulfites”? It is legally mandated that any wine containing more than 10 mg/l of sulfites display the “Contains sulfites” warning on the back label. Any wine with 10 mg/l or less of sulfites can get away with calling itself sulfite-free. But now you know the truth.

So then if sulfites are mostly a good thing, why is there a warning on the back label of nearly every bottle? There was a time when the use of SO2 in food products was a bit excessive (think salad bars). For those who suffer from allergies or asthma, a reaction may indeed occur from ingesting sulfites. Symptoms typically include nasal irritation and stuffiness, a tickling of the throat and other respiratory complications. But not headaches. Currently, the legal level allowed in any bottle of wine in the U.S. is 350 mg/l. In reality, most producers use much less than that. That number is simply a legal limit. I can tell you that there are far greater levels of SO2 present in foods like dried fruit and vegetables, canned goods, etc. Remember, it acts as a preservative. So if you are truly allergic or sensitive to sulfites, you’ll need to avoid more than just wine on those grocery store shelves.

Researchers have been hard at work trying to pin down the wine-headache conundrum. We need to remember that grapes (and thus wine) are an agricultural product and that wine inside the bottle is very much alive. There are proteins, pollens, various bacteria, histamines, and tyramines galore inside every bottle (alongside SO2). I’m not sure how sulfites got singled out as the bad guy, and why a box of raisins doesn’t contain the same warning. Nevertheless, it is currently believed that the histamines and tyramines produced by lactic acid bacteria during malolactic fermenation are the true culprit of headaches. The tannins present in red wines may also trigger headaches for some people. Or maybe, just maybe, you drank too damn much! Dehydration will also trigger headaches.

So it is true that sulfites may be bothersome for certain consumers, but ultimately they have been discredited as the causer of wine headaches. So don’t let the “Contains sulfites” warning disconcert you too much. Sulfur is a natural element, and the use of sulfur dioxide has been used for a long, long, LONG time. Sulfites serve an important purpose. For those who would still like to avoid SO2, there are plenty of organic and natural wines on the market that have lower levels. I hope this helps to clear up any misconceptions. Happy drinking. Cheers!

 

Bubbles

Beyond Champagne: other bubbles

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In my previous post, I talked exclusively about Champagne and how to define it. This included some tid bits on the region itself, but mostly I talked about the Champagne method (aka Méthode Champenoise) for producing sparkling wine. At this point, I feel I need to expand on the topic by talking about other sparkling wines around the globe that utilize this same method of production. I would also like to discuss alternative methods for creating sparkling wines.

As previously mentioned, Champagne is the benchmark for quality sparkling wine. However, there are producers outside of this iconic region that are giving Champagne a run for its money. It is worth noting that quality sparkling wines are produced all over France. Any sparkling wine produced in France, but outside of the Champagne region, that utilizes the traditional method of production is likely to be labeled as crémant.

Moving beyond the borders of France however, one of my personal favorites is Franciacorta. Franciacorta is produced within the Lombardy region of Italy. Italy is actually responsible for many great sparkling wines, including Prosecco and Asti, that I will discuss in greater detail later. Franciacorta is a DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). This is a category within Italian wine law that puts a wine at the top of the quality pyramid. Similar to Champagne, Franciacorta uses the red grape Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) and the white grape Chardonnay in production. What’s a little different is that the white grape Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc) is also used. Pinot Blanc is technically allowed in Champagne, but is not commonly utilized. Franciacorta actually has more stringent aging requirements than Champagne. Standard multi-vintage/non-vintage Franciacorta mandates a minimum of 18 months on the lees (dead yeast cells inside the bottle) for a total of 25 months aging. Vintage or “millesimato” Franciacorta must age a minimum of 30 months on the lees and a total of 37 months. Compare that to Champagne’s requirement of 12 months aging on the lees; 15 months total aging for NV/MV and 36 months total aging for vintage (grapes coming all from one harvest). You may see metodo classico on the label.

Cava is another of Champagne’s contenders. Cava comes from Spain. While Cava may be produced in various areas throughout Spain, the vast majority of it is coming from the Catalonia region (Penedès in particular). Most Cavas produced are Blanc de blancs, meaning made only from white grapes. However, red grapes are allowed. The three key white grapes used are Macabeo, Xarel-lo and Parellada. Chardonnay is being used more and more in modern times. Cava must age for a minimum of 9 months on the lees. If you see Reserva on the label, then 15 months of lees aging was required. Gran Reserva requires no less than 30 months of aging on the lees. Cava may also be produced in a rosado or rosé style. Like Champagne, a range of sweetness levels may be produced. You may see método tradicional on the label.

South Africa also produces sparkling wines made in the traditional method. Sparkling wines here come from the cooler regions of the Cape and it will be labeled méthode cap classique (MCC). Typically these wines use Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The United States is another major producer of sparkling wines utilizing a variety of production methods (including the traditional method) and a variety of grapes. Many of these wines hail from California or Oregon.

The southeast section of England has become a hotbed for high quality sparkling wine most recently. The regions of Sussex and Kent in particular are having luck growing grapevines. Like many other traditional method sparkling wines the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes take center stage here. Bacchus and Ortega are unique white grape varieties also used.

In general, wines outside of Europe will have less strict requirements for wine production and grape growing, although this does not necessarily impede quality.

I’ve just mentioned some of the most well known traditional method sparkling wines, but there is certainly more than one way to get those bubbles into the bottle. I will start with the Tank Method (aka Charmat or cuve close). With the tank method, the secondary fermentation responsible for creating the bubbles takes place in a large pressurized tank instead of inside a bottle (all other steps remain the same). There are a few key advantages to using this method of production. This process saves time and money since you can produce sparkling wine on a much larger scale. It also eliminates the tedious task of riddling, since the wine is racked off of the sediment into a different tank and then bottled. Furthermore, this method works particularly well for aromatic grape varieties (such as Riesling or Muscat). The tank method helps to preserve the fruity characteristics of the wine since lees aging is avoided. Typically, wines made in this method are not aged. They are bottled young and ready for immediate consumption. Famous sparkling wines made this way include Italy’s Prosecco and Germany’s Sekt. Prosecco comes from the Veneto region of Italy and is made from the Glera (a white grape) grape variety. Sekt can be made from a wide variety of grapes including those traditionally used in Champagne. However, about 50% of Sekt produced in made from Riesling.

The Transfer Method is sort of a happy medium between the traditional method and the tank method. All steps in this method remain the same as the traditional method right up until after the completion of the secondary fermentation inside the bottle plus aging. Instead of going through the process of riddling, all bottles are emptied into a pressurized tank and filtered. The dosage (the sugar and wine combo added prior to bottling that determines the final sweetness level of the wine) is added while the wine is in the tank, and then the wine is bottled again for sale. This method might be used anywhere. In fact, the transfer method is used on occasion in Champagne. Remember those large format bottles I mentioned? Winemakers in Champagne will used the transfer method to relocate the wine into bottles that are particularly small or particularly large (can you imagine riddling a wall of Nebuchadnezzars?) In the U.S. you might know that a bottle of bubbly has gone through the transfer method if you see “Fermented in the Bottle” or “Bottle Fermented” on its label. This is a way of telling consumers that the wine was indeed fermented in a bottle, just not the same bottle that you are holding in your hand. To be clear, whenever you buy a bottle of sparkling wine made in the traditional method, the bottle you see on the shelf is the same bottle that the wine fermented in.

The Partial Fermentation Method creates a sparkling wine that is sweet, lower in alcohol and lower in pressure. With this method, the still base wine is allowed to ferment to just a few degrees of alcohol. The grape must is then chilled to just above freezing. This more or less paralyzes the yeast. At this point, the wine is racked off of the sediment and placed into a pressurized tank. The wine is then warmed up just enough to pull the yeast out of its stupor and it continues to ferment. Since the wine is now inside of a pressurized tank, the carbon dioxide is trapped and the bubbles are created. The wine will be sterile filtered and bottled once the desired alcohol and pressure levels have been reached. Classic examples of wine made in this method include Moscato d’Asti or Brachetto d’Acqui. Moscato d’Asti is made from the white grape Moscato; Brachetto d’Aqui is a red sparkling wine made from the Brachetto grape. Both wines come from the Piedmont region of Italy. Wines made in this method typically only have around 5% alcohol by volume, compared to more traditional sparkling wines that will have a final abv of 11-12%. There is no liqueur de tirage or dosage used in the partial fermentation method.

(Reminder: liqueur de tirage is the sugar and yeast combo that is added to the still wine in order to initiate the secondary fermenation).

The Ancestral Method mimics the days when sparkling wine production was not understood or done intentionally. This method is not widely used today. For this method, the still base wine will be bottled and sealed before the first fermentation has completed (while it is still sweet). The wine continues to ferment inside the bottle until all of the sugar has been converted into alcohol (and is thus dry). With the ancestral method, the wine is not disgorged. This means that the bottle you purchase will be slightly cloudy and have some of that yeasty sediment inside of the bottle. A classic example comes from the Languedoc region of France, called Blanquette de Limoux Méthode Ancestrale. This process is similar to the partial fermentation method in that no liqueur de tirage or dosage are used, but the resulting style of wine is very different. This method pays homage to the days when still wine was bottled during the cold winter season when fermentation was thought to have been completed. As spring and summer moved in, the wine warmed up and continued to ferment while in storage. So the creation of sparkling wine was truly an accident. Many people believe that Dom Pérignon invented Champagne. He was, in fact, a person frustrated by this phenomenon. Before embracing those bubbles, he was trying to figure out how to prevent them!

The last method that I would like to talk about is the Carbonation method. This is when wine is injected with carbon dioxide to create the bubbles, rather than to create the bubbles naturally through a secondary fermentation. This method is similar to soda production and really only applies to those sparkling wines on the bottom rung of quality. Since the bubbles are created artificially, they tend to be larger in size and shorter lived (meaning they go flat more quickly).

This is by no means a complete guide to sparkling wines. There are other methods of production, many exceptions to the rules and a myriad of product examples not mentioned. I did however cover the major categories for alternative sparkling wines. Between this post here and my previous post focusing on Champagne, I hope to have made shopping down the sparkling wine aisle less daunting!

 

Bubbles

Champagne: a location and a beverage

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There’s a lot of confusion surrounding the world’s most popular celebratory beverage. The name Champagne is well known, but it isn’t always clear what differentiates this New Year’s sipper from other wines on the shelf. I will attempt to clear the fog here. In very general terms Champagne refers to both a location in France, and a style of wine (sparkling wine). It is important to note that not all sparkling wines may legally claim the term of “Champagne” for their labels. Only those wines produced within Champagne, France and made in the traditional Champagne method (more on this later) may use the term. The name is protected by the European Union. In this post, I will talk a little bit about the region of Champagne as well as the wine itself.

Champagne is located in the north central section of France, just a tad east of the city of Paris. There are five major sub-zones encompassing the vineyards: Montagne de Reims, Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, Côte de Sézanne, and Côte des Bar. This location on the map pushes grape growing to the limit. On average, the temperature in Champagne only reaches 50° F with frost, rain and hail regularly gracing the land with their presence. It’s the sort of thing that keeps grape growers and winemakers on edge. In the language of wine geeks, we would call this a continental climate. This term tends to describe a region that is land locked (far from the influence of an ocean), and experiences a more harsh climate (can refer to extremes for both summer and winter). In the case of wine grapes, a frigid environment like Champagne makes it difficult to achieve complete ripeness. This means that come harvest time, the grapes are low in sugar and high in acidity. But in the case of sparkling wine production, this is actually ideal.

There are three workhorse grape varieties for Champagne production: Chardonnay (a white grape), Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (red grapes). Champagne may be made from any one of these grapes alone, or from a combination of two or all three. If only Chardonnay is used, the wine is likely to be labeled as Blanc de Blancs. If only the red grapes are used, then it may be labeled Blanc de Noirs.

Champagne is a wine that is process driven, meaning that its character is largely defined by how it is made. Upon completion of harvest, a still base wine is produced. The base wine is not fermented with the skins. This avoids extracting bitterness, and it also ensures that a white wine is produced. (Most red grapes have clear pulp, so if skin contact is avoided, a white wine can still be produced). Since the grapes are barely ripe at harvest, the base wine is lower in alcohol, high in acid and neutral in flavor. No bubbles at this point. In most cases, this is the stage where a winemaker will blend this base wine with other base wines. These other base wines might be made from other grape varieties, come from different vineyards or even come from different vintages. This blending (referred to in French as assemblage) creates the cuvée. The purpose of this is to create a consistent house style from year to year. Many cuvées are indeed a blend of vintages (base wine from every harvest is always kept on reserve), and this may be indicated on the label with either NV (non-vintage) or MV (multi-vintage).

Once the winemaker is satisfied with his/her cuvée it is time to create the bubbles. A mixture of sugar and yeast is added to the complete cuvée; the cuvée is then immediately bottled and capped into the heavy glass bottles we are all familiar with. The sugar and yeast mixture is referred to as liqueur de tirage and it initiates a secondary fermentation (called prise de mousse). This secondary fermentation will create the bubbles as well as boost the alcohol content by a percentage or two. With every fermentation, yeast eats up the sugar and creates alcohol plus carbon dioxide. With normal still wine production, the carbon dioxide is released into the surrounding environment. With sparkling wine production, this secondary fermentation is taking place inside of a sealed bottle. This traps the carbon dioxide and voila, bubbles. The pressure that builds up in this process is tremendous. On average, a Champagne bottle contains 6 atmospheres of pressure or 90 pounds per square inch. This is why the glass for sparkling wine bottles is so much thicker than other bottles and contains an indent or punt on the bottom. So handle with care please.

Once the second fermentation is complete, it is time for the wine to age a bit. Bottles are placed on their sides and will age on the dead yeast cells or lees. Over time, the yeast cells decompose in a process called autolysis. This imparts the doughy and nutty aromas into the wine that you might already be familiar with. Champagne is legally required to age on the lees for a minimum of 12 months. Depending on the pedigree and style of the Champagne, additional aging time is required once the lees has been removed (NV/MV for example must age for an additional 3 months, for a total of 15 months). So then, how the heck do they get that dead yeast out of the bottle???

The process of removing the lees is a bit tedious, but modern technology has mechanized and sped up the process. Traditionally, bottles would be placed into an A-shaped rack or pupitre and turned by hand just a tad each day. This causes the dead yeast to be shaken slightly and moved toward the neck of the bottle. This process is called riddling or remuage. Over a period of several weeks or months, the bottles become nearly completely inverted in the rack, with all of the sediment collected neatly in the neck of the bottle. A machine called a gyropalette can achieve the same results with far more bottles and in much less time. Both methods of riddling are used; it is a matter of preference from the producer. At this point, the sediment can finally be removed.

Pupitre
Gyropalette

The necks of the bottles are dipped into an icy brine solution that freezes the sediment, turning it into a solid plug. The bottles are flipped upright and the bottle caps are removed. Those 6 atmospheres of pressure send that plug of sediment flying out. This process is called dégorgement or disgorging. A small amount of wine is lost in this process. Prior to being sealed with the mushroom shaped cork we are all familiar with, the bottle is topped up with a small amount of wine and sugar, which will determine the final sweetness level of the wine. This process is referred to as dosage or liqueur d’expédition. The sugar helps to balance out the high acidity level in the wine. Depending on what the winemaker is trying to achieve, there are various sweetness level options that will be indicated on the label.

  • Brut Nature: No sugar added
  • Extra Brut: Very dry
  • Brut: Dry
  • Extra Dry: Off-dry (the name is a misnomer as it is sweeter than Brut)
  • Sec: Slightly sweet
  • Demi-Sec: Sweet
  • Doux: Very sweet

So in a nutshell that is the Traditional or Classic Method for producing Champagne and sparkling wine. I mentioned earlier that the name Champagne is legally protected by the EU. The phrase Méthode Champenoise is also legally protected and may only be used on labels of wines produced in Champagne, France. Any sparkling wines made in this method outside the Champagne region are likely to state Traditional Method or Classic Method on the label. There are alternative methods for producing sparkling wine, but for the sake of keeping this article relevant and concise, I will not discuss those methods here.

There are many different styles of Champagne produced and various terminology that you may encounter on a Champagne label. I have already mentioned MV/NV, Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs.

  • Prestige or tête de cuvée: this will be a producer’s pride-and-joy, top-of-the-line wine. For example, the prestige cuvée for Louis Roederer is Cristal. For Moët & Chandon, it is Dom Pérignon. Prestige cuvées are often vintage wines as well, but they do not have to be.
  • Vintage: this is when the base wine is produced from grapes all harvested in a single year. Vintage Champagnes are typically only made in exceptional years. Since the weather in Champagne is harsh and unpredictable, it is possible that only a couple of vintage wines will be produced within a decade. The vintage will be indicated on the bottle. Vintage Champagnes must age for a minimum of 36 months prior to release.
  • Rosé: there are a few ways of making rosé Champagne. A small amount of red wine may be blended in, or the base wine may ferment on the skins for a very short period of time in order to extract a small amount of color.

Champagne may also come in a variety of bottle sizes (beyond the standard 750 ml bottle), all named after biblical characters.

  • Magnum: equivalent to 2 bottles
  • Jeroboam: equivalent to 4 bottles
  • Methuselah: equivalent to 8 bottles
  • Salmanazar: equivalent to 12 bottles
  • Balthazar: equivalent to 16 bottles
  • Nebuchadnezzar: equivalent to 20 bottles
  • Solomon: equivalent to 24 bottles

Champagne may or may not be the best sparkling wine in the world. That would be subjective. One thing is for sure: Champagne is the benchmark for sparkling wine and has inspired contenders from parts of the globe you might not expect (South Africa, Italy, England, etc.). Either way, there is much to be explored. Champagne is available at a variety of price points, so you don’t need to wait for a celebration to enjoy its delights. Now get popping!

Food and Wine Pairing

Pair this with that . . . a basic guide for matching wine with food

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Over the course of my career, I have developed a love for the challenge associated with pairing wine with food. Multi-course dinners at a restaurant can involve a myriad of exotic ingredients being used, various cooking methods to consider, people to impress and a budget to work with. It sounds like a daunting task, but if you can remember a few key guidelines you’ll at least know what to avoid. Combine that with an understanding of a handful of red and white wines, and you’re on your way to matching like a pro.

Does every wine have a soul mate in the form of scrumptious calories? Maybe. But just like with people, there’s usually more than one prospective partner with the potential to create a harmonious marriage. Effectively matching food with wine can be a challenge, but even the most lavish or trendy of meals will have a few great options for creating an awesome flavor experience. This is because both food and wine are made up of a combination of structure and flavor elements, and this game is all about how you put these elements together. Let’s first go over what some of the main structure and flavor elements are and then move on to how they may interact with one another (for better or worse).

Tannin: this is a structure element that you’ll find more so in wine than in food, and almost exclusively in red wines. Tannin is what gives your mouth that “shrink-wrap” feeling on the inside. It is a tactile sensation that simply leaves your palate, cheeks and gums feeling dry. Tannins may also leave a bitter aftertaste. Tannins are present in the skins and seeds of grapes and also in the stems of grape clusters. The tannins leach out into the wine during the fermentation process. Tannins may also come from oak barrels during the aging process. Some foods do contain tannin. Examples include unripe fruit, nuts, chocolate and legumes.

Sugar/Sweetness: this is a little more straightforward, and could be considered both a component of structure and flavor. In the context of wine, sweetness represents the amount (or lack thereof) of residual sugar in the wine. Sweetness may make a wine seem more fruity in flavor (although a fruity wine can still be dry). Grapes contain sugar in them at harvest time. During the fermentation process, yeast eats up that sugar and converts it into alcohol. In the case of most table wines, all of that sugar gets fermented out leaving the wine dry. Some wines (like an off-dry Riesling) may be made to intentionally leave some residual sugar in the finished product; a dessert wine (like Port) will have considerable residual sugar. In the case of food, sugar may be added intentionally (like in desserts) or may be present naturally (like in fruit). In wine, the presence of sugar may affect not only the flavor, but also the body (adding richness and weight).

Acidity: this is a major structure element in wine. Acid is what makes something seem tangy. Grapes naturally contain tartaric, malic and citric acid. In wine, acidity adds a refreshing balance to the experience. Think of how a wedge of lemon makes that bitter, tannic iced tea taste better. There is acid present in most foods as well. Fruit (especially tomatoes) and vinegar are common high-acid ingredients in meals.

Alcohol: this is a structure element specific to (you guessed it!) wine. Wines have varying levels of alcohol; the final level of alcohol in a wine can be affected by a number of things. In general, the higher the level of sugar in grapes at harvest time, the higher the final alcohol level will be. Some winemakers choose to leave residual sugar in their wines, which generally means the alcohol level will be slightly lower. Some wines (like Port) are fortified with a neutral grape spirit during the fermentation process, which results in high alcohol and high sugar levels. In wine, alcohol may lend either a sweet or bitter note. There is also a direct correlation between the body of a wine and the alcohol level. Lower alcohol wines will feel light and delicate on the palate. High alcohol wines will feel rich and heavy.

Saltiness: this is a flavor element present in food. Saltiness is not present in wines. In the case of food, salt will coax out more flavor and prevent a dish from seeming bland. Some foods (like olives or shellfish) may naturally have a salty, briny character to them.

Spice: this is another flavor element present mostly in food, but some wines may have characteristics of spice as well. Spice may relate to something with heat (like chili peppers) or it may relate to seasonings like pepper, cinnamon, clove, et cetera. Either way, it’s an important element to consider when pairing wine with food.

Fat: this is sort of a flavor and structure element specific to food. Fat makes food taste better, while also adding weight, richness and sometimes oiliness to a dish. Think of a marbleized steak, a fatty oily fish; or think of how ingredients like butter, avocado and olive oil change a dish.

Oak: this is a flavor element present in wine, predominantly in reds. Oak may literally lend a woody taste to wine, but may also impart vanilla, coconut, dill or sweet spices to the finished product.

Leather, kumquat, rosewater: these are examples of a great number of flavor and aroma elements in wine that may be perceived or interpreted by the taster. Think of things like this as expressions of the wine. Each taster will pick up on something different. While these expressions are worth considering, I personally would argue to consider them second after considering structure.

Now that we’ve broken down some of the most important things to consider when matching vino with cibo, let’s talk about how these elements tend to interact with each other.

Acid is arguably the most important thing to evaluate when creating food and wine pairings. Wines with notable acidity will be more food friendly. In general, most of the wines out there famous for their acidity are white. High acid wines work particularly well with dishes that also have pronounced acidity, or pronounced fat/richness or saltiness. Let’s look at some examples.

A fish is high in those fatty Omega-3s, making it a great partner for a high acid wine like Sauvignon Blanc (especially with a squeeze of lemon over the fish). The reason this works is that the acid in the wine cuts through the oily richness of the fish, creating balance. It’s a contrast. Throw in that squeeze of lemon I mentioned for extra acidity and now you also have flavors that complement one another. This same concept applies when looking at a garden salad with an olive oil vinaigrette dressing (olive oil=fat, vinaigrette=acid). A high acid wine (Muscadet for example) is the ticket. When looking at dishes with an element of acidity however, it is important that the wine be greater in acid content. If the food’s acidity outweighs the wine, then the wine will end up tasting thin and bland.

What about saltiness? When salt is a prominent character in a dish there are a couple of things to avoid. The flavor of salt is exaggerated by a wine with high tannin, so beware the Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon when this is the case. Also, salt will exacerbate the perception of alcohol in a wine. This intensifies the burning sensation you feel in your mouth and throat with a higher alcohol wine. It should be noted that spicy food intensifies the perception of alcohol as well; in fact, a high alcohol wine will make spicy food even hotter creating a less than pleasant experience; so avoid pairing those Mendoza Malbecs with salty, spicy Asian cuisine.

With dishes that are very salty, a high acid wine (acidity to the rescue again) tones down the salty flavor and creates a more harmonious dining experience. A classic example would be sparkling wine and potato chips (or popcorn). Ok, so caviar works very well also. There’s a pairing for every budget. Salty also does well with a wine possessing some sweetness. The pleasures of salty and sweet together are no secret. It’s a beautiful counterbalance. A good example is a pungent, salty bleu cheese paired with Sauternes (a sweet and tart dessert wine from Bordeaux, France). The inherent sweet and tangy attributes of the Sauternes wine are a nice flavor combination in and of itself. Sweetness and acidity together are what makes lemonade so successful.

Moving on to sweetness, I’ve already mentioned that sweetness in wine combined with tangy and/or salty foods is a winner. It also tends to work really well with spicy food (like, chili pepper spicy). Just remember that heat needs sweet. A classic pairing is Thai food with an off-dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer. The residual sugar in these wines, combined with lower alcohol levels, helps to tame the heat. So the next time you find yourself stoking the flames at Buffalo Wild Wings, perhaps consider reaching for a glass of Moscato instead of beer to relieve your pain.

Sweetness in wine combined with sweetness in food can be a bit more challenging. The thing to remember with dessert pairings is that the wine must be sweeter than the dessert, lest the wine end up tasting acrid. This means that wine and chocolate is actually not all the rage. In most cases this pairing ends up being unpleasant, especially since dark chocolate in particular contains tannin. When pairing wine with chocolate, lean towards very rich sweet wines like Port.

A pairing to avoid is a high tannin wine and fish. The oil in fish clashes with the tannin in red wine to create a metallic taste. This doesn’t mean that you can’t pair red wine with fish however. A Pinot Noir is a red wine that naturally has lower levels of tannin, making it a suitable option for fish entrees. In fact, Pinot Noir with salmon is another classic win.

Tannic red wines perform at their best when paired with dishes containing higher fat and protein content (like prime rib) and an element of bitterness to them. Bitterness in food could be anything from grilled/charred meats to arugula. In the case of bitter flavors in food, it complements the bitterness that comes from the tannin in the wine. In the case of fatty red meats, the tannin cuts right through the fat for that counterbalancing effect. This helps explain why big, bold Cabernet Sauvignons are nearly always paired with steak.

Many California wines tend to have elevated levels of alcohol; since alcohol adds weight to a wine you want to make sure you match those high octane wines with heavy dishes. It’s about matching the weight of the food with the weight of the wine (another important consideration). Try pairing a rich and heavy short-rib ragout with a California Zinfandel.

Oaky wines (white or red) also do well with charred/grilled/smoked meats. Again, the flavors are complementary. Nearly all red wines see some oak during the maturation process. In general though, a very oaky wine is not particularly food friendly. Oak flavors in wine can be strong and bitter, easily overwhelming most entrees. Unless carefully matched, I generally prefer to enjoy an oaky wine all by itself.

While this may not serve as a comprehensive guide on perfectly pairing wine with food, I hope to have displayed the fundamental building blocks for creating amazing dining experiences (whether you are at home or fine dining downtown). The things I’ve listed here are some of the most important things to consider. First, assess the structure of the food and wine, then move on from there. There are a lot of different approaches. You can contrast flavors/structure or complement them. In most cases, I prefer to contrast structure elements but complement flavor elements. Just remember to always look out for the attributes that stick out the most in both the food and the wine. The point is, learn what works and then play from there. Possibilities are endless.